***ATTENTION***
Windshield / Rear Window Installation Kits
500 Kit comes with (3/8") 15' rubber spacer $46.00
504 Kit comes with (1/4") 15' rubber spacer $46.00
510 Kit comes with (9/16") 15 ' rubber spacer $52.00
1/4" rubber spacer only $26.00
3/8" rubber spacer only $28.00
9/16" rubber spacer only $32.00
These kits also come with:
For Windshield For Rear Window
40 stainless screws 50 stainless screws
40 nylock nuts 50 nylock nuts
12 stainless sheet metal screws (use on sides / A Pillar when needed) *1 (5 oz) tube of black weather strip adhesive
*1 (5 oz) tube of black super weather strip adhesive 1 instruction sheet
1 instruction sheet
Note: When ordering two kits for the windshield & rear window only 1 tube of black super weather strip adhesive is included.
1). Remove old window from the vehicle. Clean the window track, scraping all of the old adhesive away to insure a good bond with the new adhesive.
2). Trial fit the rubber spacer, cutting away any excess length. Most windshield installations do not need the rubber across the bottom, as the Lexan will lay flat on the body area in front of the dash (Normally when there is no cowl panel behind the hood). The rubber may need to “taper down” at the bottom part of the sides (options: belt sander works well / or use a sanding block with 30, or 60 grit paper, or grinder) for this to occur. Next, using the weather strip adhesive, glue the rubber to the window mounting flange and clamp until dry.
3). Laying Lexan on the installed rubber spacer, trial fit Lexan to the opening until satisfied. Ultimately there should be 1/16” – 1/8” gap (for flush mounting) between the body and the window at all areas of the opening. Outline the window mounting flange on the Lexan paper (use masking tape if paper has been peeled back) for making and spacing of the mounting bolt holes (3 ½” to 4” spacing is common).
4). Using a 3/16” or 13/64" drill bit (oversize allows for heat expansion), drill the mounting holes slowly going through the rubber and mounting flange. Countersink all the holes in Lexan to fit the bolt head (CAREFULLY! THIS DOES NOT REQUIRE MUCH PRESSURE).
5). Clean away all shaving. You are now ready to paint the inside edge of the Lexan if a finished look is preferred. Tape off the width wanted for a painted border. The area to be painted will need to be sanded.
6). Bolt the window in place top and bottom, starting in the middle and working out to the sides. Tighten the screws so that Lexan is snug against the rubber. Do not over tighten as this will make the Lexan appear “wavy” and could cause splintering around the mounting holes.
Windshield / Rear Window Installation Kits
500 Kit comes with (3/8") 15' rubber spacer $46.00
504 Kit comes with (1/4") 15' rubber spacer $46.00
510 Kit comes with (9/16") 15 ' rubber spacer $52.00
1/4" rubber spacer only $26.00
3/8" rubber spacer only $28.00
9/16" rubber spacer only $32.00
These kits also come with:
For Windshield For Rear Window
40 stainless screws 50 stainless screws
40 nylock nuts 50 nylock nuts
12 stainless sheet metal screws (use on sides / A Pillar when needed) *1 (5 oz) tube of black weather strip adhesive
*1 (5 oz) tube of black super weather strip adhesive 1 instruction sheet
1 instruction sheet
Note: When ordering two kits for the windshield & rear window only 1 tube of black super weather strip adhesive is included.
1). Remove old window from the vehicle. Clean the window track, scraping all of the old adhesive away to insure a good bond with the new adhesive.
2). Trial fit the rubber spacer, cutting away any excess length. Most windshield installations do not need the rubber across the bottom, as the Lexan will lay flat on the body area in front of the dash (Normally when there is no cowl panel behind the hood). The rubber may need to “taper down” at the bottom part of the sides (options: belt sander works well / or use a sanding block with 30, or 60 grit paper, or grinder) for this to occur. Next, using the weather strip adhesive, glue the rubber to the window mounting flange and clamp until dry.
3). Laying Lexan on the installed rubber spacer, trial fit Lexan to the opening until satisfied. Ultimately there should be 1/16” – 1/8” gap (for flush mounting) between the body and the window at all areas of the opening. Outline the window mounting flange on the Lexan paper (use masking tape if paper has been peeled back) for making and spacing of the mounting bolt holes (3 ½” to 4” spacing is common).
4). Using a 3/16” or 13/64" drill bit (oversize allows for heat expansion), drill the mounting holes slowly going through the rubber and mounting flange. Countersink all the holes in Lexan to fit the bolt head (CAREFULLY! THIS DOES NOT REQUIRE MUCH PRESSURE).
5). Clean away all shaving. You are now ready to paint the inside edge of the Lexan if a finished look is preferred. Tape off the width wanted for a painted border. The area to be painted will need to be sanded.
6). Bolt the window in place top and bottom, starting in the middle and working out to the sides. Tighten the screws so that Lexan is snug against the rubber. Do not over tighten as this will make the Lexan appear “wavy” and could cause splintering around the mounting holes.
Part #611 - Hardware For Fiberglass Doors (Shown)
Partially Welded $195.00
Partially Welded $195.00
Part #600 - Hardware For Factory Doors (Shown)
Non - Welded $130.00
Pictured Above: Either set can be made for Factory doors or Fiberglass doors. Difference is in the hardware.
All door window frame kits come with prebent top bends of window frame (3/8" tubing), 26 window tabs (#600) including stainless flat head countersink screws & nylock nuts, 8 door tabs including 24 screws, and 4 tensioner bar braces (5/16" tubing, 2 per side).
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Part #620 - #6 x 1/2" long Stainless screws & nuts; for door windows (26 per pack) $12.37
Part #820 - #8 -32 x 1" long Stainless machine screws with nylock nuts; (50 per pack) windshield or rear window. $18.70
Single Flute Countersink Bit $13.20